June 4th, 2025

Avalon’s SPF Guide For Healthy Skin

As an aesthetician, I speak with clients every week on the importance of sunscreen. Even as numbers increase at a frightening rate for skin cancer, I find that I meet many who are either applying sunscreen ineffectively, or not re-applying sunscreen at the appropriate times, or not applying sunscreen at all. The information below is not a scare tactic, it is simply information on the truth about skin cancer and sunscreen. My hope is to educate, assist in healthy skin care choices, and explain why I offer what I retail.

The CDC’s statistics state 70% of adults reported using a type of sun protection on warm, sunny days, with only 10% of teenagers reporting as using sun protection (1). This does not take into account the percentage of people who use sunscreen on cloudy days, which in my opinion, I fear is far less in those stated percentages.  

In 2020, the American Cancer Society reported 100,350 new cases of melanoma (skin cancer). In this same year, there was 6, 850 reported melanoma deaths (2). In another study from Cancer.Org, they reported that there are two melanoma deaths for every hour in the United States (3). Fast forward to 2025, the American Cancer Society estimates that there will be 104,960 new cases of melanoma diagnosed. This includes 60,550 cases in men and 44,410 in women. Additionally, they estimate that 8,430 people will die from melanoma in 2025. (4)

In the past decade (2011 – 2021), the number of new invasive melanoma cases diagnosed annually increased by 44 percent, and the rates of melanoma cases are estimated to increase by 5.8 percent in 2021 (3).

Melanoma is not the only form of skin cancer on the rise. According to a new study published in the Journal of the American Academy of Dermatology, 2,488 cases of the “rare” Merkel Cell Cancer was diagnosed. Researchers predict this number to increase to 3,284 cases by 2025. To put these numbers in perspective, they estimate the cases of Merkel Cell Carcinoma to rise six times faster than other types of skin cancers and twice as fast as melanoma (5).

How To Apply Sunscreen

The American Academy of Dermatology Association suggests the following:

●Use an SPF of 30 or higher. The American Academy of Dermatology always recommends an SPF of 30, because it is clinically proven to be a sufficient amount of protection to reduce or minimize the adverse effects of sunlight. Do not used expired sunscreen.

●Use SPF year long, even in cloudy days or the winter you are still exposed to the sun’s harmful UV rays.

●Apply sunscreen 15 minutes before sun exposure. Most adults need 1 ounce for full body coverage. The UV-Filtering chemicals need time to absorb into the skin and form a layer of protection.

●For lip protection, apply a lip product with an SPF 15 or higher.

●Reapply every two hours, or immediately after sweating or swimming.

How Sunscreen Has Changed Over Time

Skincare, Warfare Strategies and A Bit of Chemistry

The first US led synthetic sunscreen launched in 1928. This formula was an emulsion of benzyl salicylate and benzyl cinnamate, and was not commercialized widely to the mass market (5).

Commercialized sunscreen launched in 1932, when Australian Blake Milton, a young adelaide chemist launched commercial sunscreen in 1932 with the funding help from friends and family and produced 500 tubes of “sunburn preventative cream”. Four years later, in 1936, French chemist Eugene Schueller brought the first commercial sunscreen to the United States market through his company L’Oreal.  United States airman, later turned pharmacist Benjamin Green, used a red, sticky veterinary petrolatum to create sunscreen for soldiers in the pacific tropics during World War II. The sunscreen named Red Vet Pet, was later sold, improved and rebranded under Coppertone Girl. In 1946, Austrian chemist Franz Greiter launched the first modern sunscreen called Gletscher Crème (Glacier Cream) which went on to become the company Piz Buin. The “modern” sunscreen was ineffective by today’s standards of having an estimated SPF 2, however Franz Greiter went on to invent Sun Protection Factor (SPF), a system in which  measures the amount of sun exposure (7).

Sunscreen today, is not only effective in protecting against sun exposure, it takes less than 10 minutes to become fully functional in vivo.

The variety on the market ranges by type of sunscreen, SPF types, and more.

How Does SPF Work Anyway?

An SPF 30 blocks 97% of UVB rays, while SPF 50 blocks 98% of UVB rays, making the difference between SPF 30 and SPF 50 as 1%. Typically, the market price for most SPF 50 products are higher than SPF 30. In fact, when considering the amount of coverage, an SPF 100 only blocks 99%.

Another thing to consider, is that SPF does not measure the time allowed for sun exposure, but the amount of sun exposure. The American Academy of Dermatology recommends that we reapply every two hours during sun exposure, but I would not recommend a client with fair skin, low Fitzpatrick phototyping scale, at two pm in the afternoon, full sun exposure with no shade on a beach wait two hours to reapply. What if this same client was at a mountain resort at six pm, and was sitting by a restaurant window watching the sun set?

For the above reasons, as a skin care professional, I can understand the general confusion on which SPF is better and how often to apply. As you pay more attention to your skin, and how sensitive your skin is to UVA/UVB rays, and keep track of applications- you will know on average how often for different environments. For example, someone who is very fair Fitzpatrick and is sensitive to the sun will have to re-apply more often, especially if that person is outside in full sun with very little cloud cover.

What’s In Your Sunscreen?

All of these are reef safe!

21% Zinc Oxide: Broad spectrum, physical UVA/UVB protection

Myristoyl Pentapeptide-17: Advanced Healing Peptide Delivery System
Sepilift™: Hydrating peptide, protects extra-cellular matrix while free radical scavenging
Sepitonic™: Advanced anti-glycation, encourages supple collagen and elastin stimulation

Niacinamide: Brightens skin, pore refinement, anti-aging

Zinc Oxide (13.5%): Zinc Oxide is an ingredient that is generally used to address skin damage, like burns or scars, irritation, SPF, wound healing and may even function as a protective layer on the skin to lock moisture in while keeping pathogens out. Zinc Oxide is also used as a natural sun-protecting agent that reflects UV rays from the skin and provides a barrier between the skin and the sun. This protective barrier also helps to prevent moisture loss or trans epidermal water loss (TEWL). Zinc oxide may help to reduce redness, swelling, pain, and inflammation caused by bacterial build-up and is calming and soothing to irritated skin. Zinc Oxide also helps to minimize the appearance of large pores and prevents shininess of the skin by regulating oil production.

Ergothioneine (L): Ergothioneine (L), chirally correct, is an antioxidant found in various liver, kidney, black and red beans, oat bran and fungi (mushrooms) and is known as a skin calming agent that helps with discoloration and UV damage. It protects the mitochondrial membrane from oxidation by transferring fatty acids to help skin use oxygen more efficiently and produce more regenerative energy. Due to its antioxidant properties, it helps the harmful effects of free radicals and alleviates signs of aging, prevents oxidative damage, and helps in DNA repair. In turn, it is used to prevent wrinkles, reduce signs of aging skin, and reduce photodamage.

Porphyra Umbilicalis (Red Algae) Extract: Porphyra Umbilicalis (Red Algae) Extract is a type of seaweed that has been used in skincare products for its antioxidant and anti-inflammatory properties. It is rich in sulfated polysaccharides (carrageenan), peptides, carotenoids, and fatty acids. It has potential anti-inflammatory, skin whitening, and pain relief activities. The extract is known to help protect the skin against oxidative stress caused by environmental factors such as pollution and UV radiation. It is a unique organism that produces the most powerful UV-absorbing substances in nature, and the extract itself absorbs UVA/UVB light.

Malic Acid (L): Malic Acid (L), chirally correct, is an alpha-hydroxy acid derived from apples that exfoliates the top layer of the skin, which in turn does everything from smooth texture to fade discoloration to help unclog pores. Malic Acid promotes cellular renewal, speeds up cell turnover and balances the pH of the skin. In higher concentrations it can also penetrate lower levels of the skin to bring about new collagen formation, it also is hydrating, improves tone, reduces fine lines and wrinkles. Malic Acid also brightens the skin, helps to treat acne, and improves skin smoothness.

21% Zinc Oxide: Broad spectrum, physical UVA/UVB protection

Myristoyl Pentapeptide-8 & 17: Advanced Healing Peptide Delivery System

Advanced Ceramide Technology: Skin compliant lipid concentrate restoring a healthy barrier function

Niacinamide: Anti-aging, pore minimizer, brightens skin

Both EliōDrops 30 contain:

16% Zinc Oxide: Broad spectrum, physical UVA/UVB protection

Polysilicone-11: Breathable molecular lattice preventing TEWL, aids in barrier protection, maintains natural hydration, biologically inert, and great for hypersensitive skin

Tetrahexyldecyl Ascorbate, THD/BV-OSC (Vitamin C): Lipid-soluble form of vitamin C, protects skin against oxidative stress, HEV blue light, and increases healthy organization of cells

Squalane: Shark-safe, softens, smooths skin texture, promotes healthy barrier activity

Secondary Protection Touchups

Powder Sunscreens are not meant to be used as the only sunscreen to protect the skin; however they do offer an extra layer of protection or compliment liquid sunscreens as a touch up. Most powder SPF’s are formulated with Titanium Dioxide and Zinc Oxide; which are very good options for those with sensitive skin.

This is a very nice alternative for those who wear makeup, as the powder can be used to touch up the sunscreen coverage while providng a setting powder effect. For those with oily skin types, they will enjoy the powders mattifying effect. Powder suncreens should be used on the face, neck, declotte and works well in the hairline and scalp area as well.

Pro Tip: For those who have melasma, look for a mineral spf that has iron oxides for additional protection against blue light, which can contribute to hyperpigmentation (8).

Titanium Dioxide 12%: is a powerful sunscreen that is safe for sensitive skin

Zinc Oxide 12%: protects the skin from the sun while also aiding in natural repair processes

Calcified Red Algae: shields against environmental factors and free radicals

Finishing Touches

For complete sun protection, I offer my clients Cōtz Lip Balm SPF 45 (Kiwi Lime Ginger flavor) or Dermatone Lip Balm SPF 30 (no flavor or fragrance).

Why do I not retail drug store brands? They don’t include the ingredients that Cotz or Dermatone offer. Cōtz contains Only Titanium and Zinc, no chemical sunscreens. It’s also water resistant for up to 80 minutes. It’s base is sunflower seed wax, a natural emollient that helps lock in moisture and provides a protective barrier. In addition, the balm also contains Vitamin E and Vitamin C. Dermatone has slightly less SPF coverage, however it is also water resistant for up to 80 minutes. It’s active is Zinc Oxide, so no chemical sunscreen in this formulation either. It’s base ingredients are also natural and nourishing.

More importantly than all of this, is that none of the products contain common ingredients in drug store brands like petroleum jelly, parabens, menthol, eucalyptus, camphor, phenol / phenyl or alcohol.

Dermatone Lip Balm SPF 30–  $4.79

Mineral Lip Balm contains a base of natural ingredients, including sweet almond oil, shea butter, argan oil, jojoba oil, and bisabolol (a soothing chamomile extract)- all very calming and moisturizing. Scent and flavor free, this balm is SPF 15 with 15% Zinc Oxide.

Cōtz Lip Balm SPF 45– $10.00

This SPF lip balm contains Titanium Dioxide 4.0% and Zinc Oxide 5.5%. Created especially for dry lips, this lip balm has a Kiwi, Lime and Ginger flavor while moisturizing with ingredients like Sunflower Seed Wax and nourishing with Vitamins E and C.

SPF I Do Not Recommend

Sunscreen types I did not include in this blog are stick sunscreen and spray sunscreen. Things that I will note on these two types of sunscreen:

Stick Sunscreen, in my opinion, its not the most hygenic option. Keeping in mind, most users of stick sunscreen use the product from face to feet. 

Spray Sunscreen is another option I don’t carry in my retail. Spray Sunscreen can not be directly sprayed on the face; as they contain lung irritants such as Titanium Dioxide. Spray sunscreen commonly contain aerosol and alcohol in the product, which is highly flammable and can be considered dangerous. Lastly, with a spray delivery, there is no way to ensure an even coverage of sun protection, especially during windy days.

References:

https://www.cdc.gov/cancer/skin/statistics/behavior/sun-protection.htm

https://acsjournals.onlinelibrary.wiley.com/doi/10.3322/caac.21590

https://www.cancer.org/content/dam/cancer-org/research/cancer-facts-and-statistics/annual-cancer-facts-and-figures/2021/cancer-facts-and-figures-2021.pdf

https://www.cancer.org/cancer/types/melanoma-skin-cancer/about/key-statistics.html

https://pubmed.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/29102486/

https://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pmc/articles/PMC6304211/

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Sunscreen#History

https://onlinelibrary.wiley.com/doi/full/10.1111/jocd.13803